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Coperta’s menu, an edible love letter to the bold flavors of Rome and Southern Italy, is a standout in this marinara-drenched town. Brother-sister duo Paul and Aileen Reilly—he runs the kitchen, she runs the dining room—keep it simple and scrumptious, with friendly service and a concise menu of antipasti, fresh mozzarella with accompaniments, pastas (available in small plate or entrée portions), and a few larger dishes, including a juicy, incendiary pollo alla diavola. Nothing costs more than $26, and even the daily four-course prix fixe tops out at $35. You can also take some of the love home with you: Quarts of Paul’s lamb and beef ragu, meatballs, and marinara are available to go. $$, 400 E. 20th Ave., 720-749-4666
