We could simply list all of the assorted food, drink, and other random items you’ll find for sale at LoHi’s new Dimestore Delibar, which opened this past weekend. But instead, embracing the theme of the unexpected that the restaurant/deli/market evokes, we’ll employ the traditional Japanese art of Haiku. Why not?
Gnocchi, dice, Febreeze.
Pastrami, belt buckles, cups.
Pepto, pasta, salt.
How about one more, because seriously, there’s a pretty far-flung range of goods at this clever place.
Soups and sandwiches;
Clam juice, dinos, and olives.
So, what gives? In order to address what they saw as a lack of affordable dining and shopping options in LoHi, chef Tim Dotson (Family Jones Spirit House, TAG Restaurant Group) and managing partner Christopher Fuentes (Tacos, Tequila & Whiskey) took over the former Low Country Kitchen (and before that, Vita) space on Boulder Street and, with Dimestore Delibar, are multitasking in a big way.
First, there’s the dime store component, where you can grab said dice, Febreeze, belt buckles, and toy dinosaurs and take them home to do whatever you do with that combination of items. Next up, there’s the deli, where, besides ordering one of seven rolled focaccia sandwiches, you can also pick up groceries, meat by the pound, or house-made pickles, aioli, and other condiments. That’s where you’ll find the pastrami, pasta, and clam juice.
There’s also a large sit-down restaurant. You’ll find those focaccia sandwiches on the menu—rolled up with meatloaf, eggplant parm, roast beef, and more—as well as a tight menu of small plates. Dotson’s food is playful, as it was at the Family Jones Spirit House, including dishes like a lamb gyro corndog, deliciously briny sardines dressed in nuoc cham, and chicken-fried duck leg confit. With the exception of the duck, nothing on the menu tops $13. “The biggest thing is we want to be an affordable neighborhood spot,” Fuentes says. “I want to make sure there’s no sticker shock.”
If you like peppy, modestly priced cocktails ($10 and under), Dimestore has you covered. Check out the vodka, citrus, pomegranate, and chile bitters-filled Scarlet Fever, and the tequila, Campari, and strawberry-peppercorn shrub blend called the Shrubble Trouble.
Like the goods, Dimestore’s décor is eclectic. Designed and built by Dotson (with much help from Fuentes), the entryway sports a bright, back-lit, geometric shelf installation; the bar is adorned with stained-glass art; countless antique knickknacks found by Dotson line shelves and display cases throughout the space. Come spring, though, you may want to skip the downstairs altogether and head up to the 1,800-square-foot rooftop patio. The views may inspire you to write a haiku of your own…or maybe just drink a cocktail and eat a lamb gyro corndog.
If you go: Dimestore Delibar is open Monday and Wednesday through Saturday, 4–12 p.m. and Sunday, 4–10 p.m.; 1575 Boulder St.